Last edited Thu Jun 5, 2025, 09:35 AM - Edit history (5)
If your primary concern is getting them open, heat (gas flame, hotplate, etc.) or penetrating oil or hammer (as dplibel suggested), or some combination thereof, would be the quickest way.
A steel wire brush, preferably powered, will remove the rust. If you do use a wire wheel or brush, wear protection! At the very least, wear good eye protection. Steel wire embedded in your flesh can be unpleasant; in your eye, much worse. You'll probably still need to use abrasives to smooth the mating surfaces.
Alternatively, chemicals are your friend. I've restored a few tools using these:
If you want to remove the rust without removing too much base metal, consider:
Evaporust: commercial, works very well, fairly expensive. I 've used this with good luck.
citric acid + washing soda (or baking soda or caustic soda, in different proportions) + dish detergent: I haven't tried this one yet, but, from everything I've read, it compares favorably to Evaporust, but is cheaper and lasts longer. May become my next go-to. Will link to video with recipe, below.
electrolysis: I haven't tried this, but have no doubt that it works well. Seems a bit of a pain to set up, unless you plan to do a lot of this sort of thing.
molasses solution: I have tried this and it works and is gentle, but is extremely slow (months).
phosphoric acid : commercial products (Naval Jelly, Ospho) I've used both and they both work quite well and are pretty easy. Of the 2 products, Naval Jelly is probably the better choice for your shears.
These acids work, but are more aggressive to the base metal:
vinegar (+ salt?), or citric acid : I've tried both, they work fairly well and you may already have them on hand, but will attack the base metal. Be careful to completely submerge the steel parts (otherwise you'll tend to get a distinct line of rust & pitting at the air interface), don't leave them in the solution too long, and rinse or neutralize (baking soda & water) well.
muriatic (hydrochloric) acid : definitely works, but is very aggressive, both on the base metal and your person. Would not recommend for casual use.
After removing the rust, depending on how rough the surface is, you'll probably need to smooth the mating surfaces with abrasives.
Video with citric acid + washing soda (or substitute) recipe:
Youtube /
Beyond Ballistics