Should be available in most Lowe's/Home Depot/Target/Walmart or Amazon.

It's always been my go-to. YMMV.

I wonder if it costs more or less than a new pair of shears.

Lay it with the blades flat on a hard surface.

Give a few smart raps with a hammer on the top blade.

Likely will break it loose.

Don't be shy about whacking it. You've got a broken tool. If you break it more, no loss, really.

But probably it will break the rust and then you can polish it up and oil it and go forth and shear.

Steel wool?

If you've got enough rust to freeze it shut, you can start with something pretty aggressive.

in vinegar, wrap it around the rusted part, let it sit for a few hours, see what comes off. If it's really severe it might take a few tries.

The whole damned thing is rusted. It was left on a garden shelf all year, exposed to the tlements.
Thanks.

scissors.

and that is - even when the blades are broken free - are you going to be able to restore a proper sheering action between blades and (probably compromised?) cutting surfaces? Don't mean to dissuade you - might be worth a shot. But those blades need to be able to move fairly tightly, and with a bit of tension - while also cleanly, past each other.

Still and all - 'good enough' might be just fine here. Not like you really need a precision surgical instrument ... Do ya?

Just need to trim back some vegetation that's out of control.

Then use steel wool in circular motion. After removing rust, spray the tool with WD40.

Last edited Thu Jun 5, 2025, 09:35 AM - Edit history (5)

If your primary concern is getting them open, heat (gas flame, hotplate, etc.) or penetrating oil or hammer (as dplibel suggested), or some combination thereof, would be the quickest way.

A steel wire brush, preferably powered, will remove the rust. If you do use a wire wheel or brush, wear protection! At the very least, wear good eye protection. Steel wire embedded in your flesh can be unpleasant; in your eye, much worse. You'll probably still need to use abrasives to smooth the mating surfaces.

Alternatively, chemicals are your friend. I've restored a few tools using these:

If you want to remove the rust without removing too much base metal, consider:

Evaporust: commercial, works very well, fairly expensive. I 've used this with good luck.

citric acid + washing soda (or baking soda or caustic soda, in different proportions) + dish detergent: I haven't tried this one yet, but, from everything I've read, it compares favorably to Evaporust, but is cheaper and lasts longer. May become my next go-to. Will link to video with recipe, below.

electrolysis: I haven't tried this, but have no doubt that it works well. Seems a bit of a pain to set up, unless you plan to do a lot of this sort of thing.

molasses solution: I have tried this and it works and is gentle, but is extremely slow (months).

phosphoric acid : commercial products (Naval Jelly, Ospho) I've used both and they both work quite well and are pretty easy. Of the 2 products, Naval Jelly is probably the better choice for your shears.

These acids work, but are more aggressive to the base metal:

vinegar (+ salt?), or citric acid : I've tried both, they work fairly well and you may already have them on hand, but will attack the base metal. Be careful to completely submerge the steel parts (otherwise you'll tend to get a distinct line of rust & pitting at the air interface), don't leave them in the solution too long, and rinse or neutralize (baking soda & water) well.

muriatic (hydrochloric) acid : definitely works, but is very aggressive, both on the base metal and your person. Would not recommend for casual use.

After removing the rust, depending on how rough the surface is, you'll probably need to smooth the mating surfaces with abrasives.

Video with citric acid + washing soda (or substitute) recipe:



Youtube / Beyond Ballistics

The oil that creeps.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallon-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96431.html?gQT=1

Get a large, flat plan. Pour this product in the pan. Drop in the shears. let them soak. Removes rust down to the bare metal.

This stuff works. No solvents or other toxic material. Will not harm any components. Can dispose of down the drain. Or, pour used liquid back into the jug, and it can be re-used later.

Dry off the shears, apply some WD-40, and you're good to go.

Final edit: This stuff is about $28.00 a gallon, but since it is re-usable, it will eventually pay for itself. If you have other rusty tools, drop them in the pan along with the shears.